Choosing siding in Calgary isn't the same as choosing it in Vancouver or Toronto. Your walls deal with large hail, strong wind, strong sun and big temperature swings. The August 5, 2024 hailstorm alone caused $3.35 billion in insured damage (CatIQ final estimate, August 2026).
This guide compares the materials you're most likely to be offered. It won't tell you what's "best", because that depends on your budget, your house and what you care about. It will tell you what each material is good and bad at, so you can make the trade-off with your eyes open.
First: siding is a screen, not a seal
Building Science Corporation's position is blunt: all exterior claddings pass some rainwater. Siding leaks, brick leaks, stucco leaks. The U.S. Department of Energy's Building America guidance says it should be assumed that all siding, regardless of material, will leak in its lifetime.
So the siding's job is to shed most of the water and protect the layers behind it from sun and impact. The water-resistive barrier, flashing and drainage behind it do the rest. A great material over a bad wall still fails. More in what's behind your siding.
The materials, one by one
Here's what each option is, in plain terms.
- Vinyl. PVC panels that hang loosely on nails so they can move. Gentek's installation guide says vinyl expands and contracts about 8 mm in a 3 m length over a 55°C temperature change, which is why it must never be nailed tight. Building America notes some vinyl products crack and fracture when struck by a fast-moving object. It's light, low-maintenance and usually among the lower-cost options.
- Insulated vinyl. Vinyl with a rigid foam backing, usually expanded polystyrene. Building America says it most commonly adds R-2.0 to R-2.8, and that it must never be installed over a wall showing moisture problems until the cause is fixed.
- Fibre cement (for example James Hardie). Cement, sand and cellulose fibre boards, usually factory-painted. James Hardie says its fibre cement won't ignite when exposed to direct flame or contribute fuel to a fire. It's heavy and paintable, and Building America notes it's more rigid and brittle than wood composites and more prone to cracking when struck.
- Engineered wood (for example LP SmartSide). Wood strands bonded with resins and treated, then primed or prefinished. Building America rates wood composites better than fibre cement on impact. It's a wood product, so cut edges and paint need care.
- Aluminum and steel. Metal panels that usually dent when struck. Building America says steel performs better than aluminum on impact. Dents are permanent, and finish scratches on steel need touching up.
- Stucco. A cement-based coating over lath and building paper. It's non-combustible and hard, but it cracks, and it depends completely on the drainage behind it.
- Stone and brick veneer. Thin masonry or manufactured stone attached to the wall, often on the lower portion of a house. Very durable, doesn't burn, and usually the most expensive option. Like stucco, it needs drainage and flashing behind it.
Side by side
These are general tendencies for typical products installed correctly, drawn from Building America's siding guidance and the manufacturer documents cited below. Product lines vary, and so does installation quality, which can matter more than the material. Relative cost is a general guide, not a price.
| Material | Impact (including hail) | Fire | Upkeep | Relative cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | Some products crack when struck | Some vinyl siding can melt or warp from reflected heat | Low; wash occasionally | Usually lowest |
| Insulated vinyl | Vinyl face can still crack | Vinyl face melts; foam backing is plastic | Low | Low to mid |
| Fibre cement | More rigid and brittle; can crack when struck | James Hardie says its board won't ignite under direct flame | Moderate; repaint over time | Mid to high |
| Engineered wood | Better than fibre cement on impact, per Building America | Wood product; combustible | Moderate; keep paint and cut edges sealed | Mid |
| Aluminum | Dents; less impact-resistant than steel | Doesn't burn | Low; dents are permanent | Mid |
| Steel | Better than aluminum on impact | Doesn't burn | Low; touch up scratches | Mid to high |
| Stucco | Hard, but can chip or crack | Doesn't burn | Moderate; seal cracks promptly | Mid to high |
| Stone or brick veneer | Very durable | Doesn't burn | Low; check mortar and flashing | Usually highest |
Hail performance and what warranties actually say
Marketing pages love the word "hail-resistant". Warranties are where you find out what a manufacturer will stand behind. As one example, LP's SmartSide prorated 50-year limited warranty, which applies in the United States and Canada (Quebec has its own version), includes a hail damage section. It defines hail damage as a crack or chip in the surface overlay, or a dent in the substrate, over 3/8 inch (10 mm), excludes storms with hail larger than 1.75 inches (45 mm), and requires reliable evidence of hail size. It also sits behind your insurance: if claim proceeds aren't enough, LP pays the cost of material only, not labour, reduced on a proration schedule.
Many siding warranties focus on manufacturing defects rather than impact damage. Ask for the actual warranty document for the product you're quoted, and read the exclusions.
How to choose
Start with what you're protecting against and how long you'll own the house.
- Budget-first, easy repair: vinyl, knowing panels may crack in hail or cold-weather impacts.
- Hail is your biggest worry: engineered wood, steel, or masonry on the most exposed walls.
- Fire resistance matters to you: fibre cement, metal, stucco or stone.
- Lowest long-term upkeep: metal or masonry; vinyl if you accept replacement after hail.
- Mixed approach: many homes combine materials, like stone on the lower wall and lap siding above.
What is the best siding for hail in Calgary?
There's no single winner. Tough or flexible materials like engineered wood, steel and masonry tend to hold up better than rigid or brittle ones. Some manufacturers, like LP for SmartSide, write specific hail terms into their warranty, which is worth comparing.
Does vinyl siding crack in cold weather?
Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature, and Building America notes some vinyl products crack when struck by a fast-moving object. Take care with impacts in winter, and make sure the installer follows the manufacturer's instructions for expansion gaps and nailing, since panels nailed tight can't move.
Is fibre cement better than vinyl?
It's different. James Hardie says its fibre cement won't ignite under direct flame, but fibre cement is heavier, usually costs more, needs repainting eventually, and Building America notes it's more prone to cracking when struck. Vinyl usually costs less and needs little upkeep, but some products crack on impact and some vinyl siding can melt or warp from reflected heat.
Is insulated vinyl siding worth it?
It adds a modest amount of insulation, most commonly R-2.0 to R-2.8 according to Building America. It's worth considering if you're re-siding anyway, but it must not go over a wall with existing moisture problems until those are fixed.
Where the facts on this page come from. If a source has changed since we last checked, tell us and we'll fix the page.
- Moisture-, Impact-, Fire-, and Pest-Resistant Exterior Siding · U.S. Department of Energy, Building America program
- BSD-105: Understanding Drainage Planes · Building Science Corporation
- Vinyl Products Installation Guide · Gentek Building Products
- Siding Performance and Durability · James Hardie
- LP SmartSide Prorated 50-Year Limited Warranty and Arbitration Agreement · Louisiana-Pacific Corporation
- Vinyl Siding with Integrated Rigid Foam for Existing Walls · U.S. Department of Energy, Building America program
- Final industry loss estimate, 2024 Calgary hailstorm · CatIQ